Day Fourteen (24/10/2024): Another capital experience (Vang Vieng to Vientiane)

 


For many centuries the capital, or Royal capital, of Laos was Luang Prabang but once the communists took over they chose to move the capital to Vientiane. It is situated over the Mekong River from Thailand so certainly improved trade was one of the motivations, but a new regime trying to delete the history of a royal family may also have contributed.






Before we left Vang Vieng Jan and I headed off for a last look around, risking life and limb over the wonky bridge, and wandering along the river path. We spotted a very intriguing rooftop ‘garden’ on one of the many multistorey hotels lining the river bank: it seemed to consist of odd seating, including a hanging ‘basket’ and a patio suspended over the river.


We were so sad we couldn't go there as we were leaving! Along the river there's lot of platforms with bright-coloured chairs for the visitors to enjoy, many with Bars. No wonder there's been so many drownings!

Everywhere we go there are low clouds and mists over the mountains in the morning


We packed up and headed off in the van for a one and a half hour journey to Vientiane, our last stop before home.

Once there, the Sabana Hotel, we headed straight for the Bar and a cold drink. As we had the afternoon to ourselves we had to consider a plan. First off we needed lunch and after some investigating (thanks to Google Maps ‘Restaurants near me’) we decided to venture forth and go to a nice little restaurant called Khop Chai Deu (which means 'thank you' in Lao) which was only a few streets away.





Fuelled up, four of us decided to visit COPE, an important rehabilitation organisation.

To get there we negotiated a price with a Tuk Tuk driver and then launched ourselves into the back. As we took off we realised that the bench seats were on a slope so Jan and I had to hang on tight to avoid sliding out. Fortunately it wasn't far away and didn't involve any hills so we arrived safely.

 


One of the pineapple bombs designed to attract children


A couple of us had visited COPE before. It's focus is to overcome the tragic health problems caused by the millions of cluster bombs dropped on Laos during the ‘Secret War’ (estimated at 80 million ‘bombies’ in total). There is a display and information about the War, the bombs and the work COPE does in providing prostheses and healthcare to those affected. From a previous visit years ago I remember being appalled at the number of bombs dropped and the evil ingenuity focused on creating bombs that would cause maximum damage. For example, metal bombs in the shape of pineapples, and equipped with a delay timer were dropped so that children would pick them up in the fields and take them home to their families before they detonated with tragic results. About 10-13% of the bombs dropped have not detonated and so deaths and injuries continue to occur. 



The red marks show where bombs were dropped along the Ho Chi Minh Trail through Laos: basically a method the northern Communists used to get arms food etc into the South of Vietnam during the Vietnam or American War (the name changes depending on whose side you were on!)

The ingenuity used to create prostheses out of
any available material is extraordinary





The MAG ( Mines Advisory Groups) members are trained to respond when a UXO ( Unexploded Ordnance) is found and hey operate along the eastern side and in the south  of Laos where the Ho Chi Minh Trail lies. 

The Americans have contributed to these teams but in 2016 when Barak Obama visited Laos (the first American president to do so) he promised $90m to help clear the bombs (as he should!). He was being politically correct so he commented that there were tragic losses on both sides of the war. Oh really? Who dropped 3-4 million tons of ordnance on America? And then there is Agent Orange and napalm…….!

Whilst $90m was a significant contribution some commentators have pointed out that during the 9 years of the War they were spending $350m per week on bombing missions. At the rate of one mission per 8 minutes over those 9 years.

It's been estimated that it will take 50 years to clear the bombs. For an agricultural society that is a lot of unusable land!


After this sobering experience we headed back to the Hotel and the Bar (again!) for a G&T or passionfruit cocktail . Then we went to the 525 restaurant/ Bar for dinner with delicious food and music (that was too loud - I'm beginning to sound like my mother!)

Delicious: Passionfruit and absinthe?!












We did a quick peruse of the Night market along the Mekong riverbank and decided there was nothing to buy as it was full of cheap fakes and ghastly clothes from Thailand and China. 


Back to the Hotel for a good night's sleep.

your concerned and questioning correspondent

Dianne


A delightful mural in a Vientiane Cafe

A surprise!


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