Day Six (16/10/2024): Our creativity runs wild.....

 Often travelling involves a lot of going to look at things: the Eiffel Tower, the Leaning Tower of Pisa, Borubudur temple and of course  - the BIG Banana! >But today was all action!

Today we actively participated in some great activities despite some members of the group being very reluctant to get their hands dirty (so to speak). Some mutterings about lacking creativity and absent craft skills were soon quelled when everybody was expected - and did!- participate with unexpected outcomes.

Another boat ride across the Mekong landed us in the village of Ban Chan - a small village which has been producing pottery for more than 400 years. Currently there are only 10 families involved but Tieng from the Lamphet family is intent on preserving the heritage and traditions.

First stop was a tour of the village watching the creation of traditional pots on hand-driven wheels. The old underground kiln was flooded but there were other old kilns in operation. We saw the whole process which commences wth digging the clay out of the Mekong. They are well-known for their large rice whisky pots which apparently are used by everyone being given a straw. That's sharing at it's best!

We watched as a very efficient process produced a whisky pot in a few minutes. The wife produces coils of clay whilst her husband builds the pot on a hand-driven wheel. They have access to electric pottery wheels but prefer the old ways.

Then to our horror we were expected to produce our own pot/s using the same type of wheel! We chose a pot from the shop that we were hoping to copy, and with the help of some great teachers ( we needed one each!) followed their instructions. To our amazement we prouced some perfectly acceptable bowls and even decorated them. Unfortunately we couldn't take them home of course, but we consoled ourselves by buying completed bowls, cups and plates from their shop.

Kerryn had a great teacher who was deaf, and Tieng was inspirational talking about the successes he had achieved in employing people who were considered 'unemployable'. As happens in many villages, young people can't wait to leave and go to the cities for education and work. His concern about the sustainabilty of the village has been heightened by the fact that working in the ricefields can pay more and many of the older people see being a potter as a lowly position so are critical of the pottery. His challenge is to build the business through tourism and marketing, and he has a focus on assisting people who are struggling. Apart from being a lot of fun, it was wonderful to see such vision for continuation of this ancient craft based on developing the community. 

We were rewarded with a delicious Lao lunch with true Lao flavours. It was a challenge as we had to sit on cushions on the floor. It would be fair to say that none of us can sit down and stand up as quickly and elegantly as we used to to, so our departure was not a pretty sight!

Then it was another boat ride across the river to the Ock Pop Tock Living Crafts Centre: the name means 'east meets west' and it focuses on bringing ancient crafts into the present day and improving the lives of women.

It was a lively place set high on the banks of the Mekong. We were offered iced tamarind tea before we headed off to watch extremely skilled local women weave intricate designs on huge weaving looms. It was a mystery how they manage to get the warp and the weft to work so effectively as there seems to be strings everywhere! It does make you appreciate the time - 4 days for one piece - it takes. They use only natural dyes from leaves and vegetables, and specific rocks like salt or alum to fix the dyes.......as we discovered when we were escorted to the dyeing room (not the dying room!). There were pots of bubbling dyes and, fortunately, helpers who knew what they were doing! 

We were each given a pale yellow silk scarf: the colour comes from the silkworms they farm, some of whom produce bright yellow cocoons. Then we were given some cotton table napkins and told to choose colours and patterns for both scarf and napkins.

You can see the process and the outcomes in the photos: We were very impressed by the results.

I did have a funny encounter with a woman in the toilets who asked me why I was wearing an apron. I told her about the dyeing (and also about the pottery: any marketing is good marketing!) and made a comment about it being great to be doing things and not just looking at things. Her comment was "Yes. Like just looking at waterfalls!". Our feelings exactly!

Arriving back at Villa Maly we were tired and hungry.

Most of us headed off to a resaurant called Maison Dalabuja situated at the back of the hotel. It came highly recommended by Kai, our guide, and proved to be one of the most beautiful open air restaurants I've eaten in. The seating surrounds a large waterlily pond which has been heritage-listed. And the food, and the presentation, was authentic and fabulous. Such a delight. 

Home to bed after an exciting day.

Your productive and happy correspondent

Dianne