Day Nine (19/10/2024): On the move northwards...even on a fast train! (Luang Prabang to Oudomxay)




Our last day in Luang Prabang gave us the morning to see the sights we missed, have a leisurely breakfast and, in my case, walk to my favourite temple from my last trip here.





I set off down the main road which was remarkably clean considering it was the route of the fire boats procession followed by thousands of people last night.

Wat Xieng Thong is a very old temple complex and has become a very important archive for many ancient manuscripts.

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However I remember it for the  beautiful glass mosaics that are only a few decades old, but based on some of the ancient black and gold paintings found inside the main temple.

Both ancient and new tell stories of everyday life in great detail. 

They include people worshipping, working in the ricefields, preparing food, wrestling (!?) playing with children and every activity of daily life.Lots of animals, temples, houses etc.  Even rollicking rabbits! Kerryn will be impressed. 

In the main temple there was a very impressive gold Buddha with his hands in the teaching position surrounded by an array of smaller Buddhas and offerings (including some with money - presumably in the hope of improved finances!)




I bought another string bracelet with beads and colours from a man in the Temple and he quietly chanted a blessing as he tied the strings on to my wrist. I am feeling blessed that's for sure!






Over the past few days I have been reconnoitring the cafes to see where I might enjoy an iced coffee and croissant for breakfast. One of the better legacies of the French is the number of French patisseries and bakeries here. I chose the Indigo Cafe and enjoyed sitting watching the passers-by as I cooled down and ate breakfast. Seblai! (delicious in the Lao language).



Then a few snacks and refreshing lime sodas (our drink of choice in Laos) around the pool and off to the new Luang Prabang Railway Station built by guess-who?? The Chinese of course. It is an enormous building built in some sort of conglomerate Asian style that protrudes out of the forest landscape just outside Luang Prabang. Nearby is an enormous new Truck business with many rows of Chinese trucks. Clearly part of the deal we thought. One oversize railway station and fast train = one enormous new trucking business and easy access for trade with China. Quid pro quo at its best!



The Station was a nightmare: all signs in Chinese, yelling Chinese staff and loud pushy Chinese passengers who have no concept of queuing at all. Despite the fabulous size of the Station the lifts and escalators were not all working. We ended up carrying our luggage up 4 flights of steep stairs which was not great. Less money on looks and more on function I say!!

I am writing this on the train (which is supposed to have wifi but doesn't). The train is smooth but we are travelling backwards the whole way which seems a little strange.




Later:

We finally arrived at the more modest Oudomxay station to be met by a new driver and van. The mountains here are wonderful: very steep craggy ridges covered by thick vegetation. This area is too far west to have been bombed in the Vietnam/American/ Secret War.

We sent Jenny off for a fruitless attempt to buy tonic water in the town to go with the gin I have stored in water bottles in my bag.  No alcohol allowed on the train so the gin and whiskey were carefully disguised as water.  Mind you the security was not tight!!

We headed out of town to a secluded resort nestled in the jungle called Nam Kat Yorlapa. The ‘cottages’ are surrounded by lush vegetation and have a huge glass wall and terrace overlooking a bubbling creek.





 Very relaxing and calming - well it would be if I could connect to WiFi on any device at all! And my esim seems to have gone missing in action too! Maybe it's a sign I should not connect to the outside world for a couple of days!!

It's been an exciting day in many ways!!

I'm looking forward to going to sleep listening to the bubbling river right outside the door.

Your calm correspondent 

Dianne



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