Day Ten (20/10/2024): Climb every mountain.....( Nam Kat Yorlapa, Oudomxay)

Jan and I decided to go for a walk to check out our location. Nam Kat Yorlapa (or Pa as it is sometimes called) is a forest preservation area and is a large property with over 60 residences, a Khmu village, adventure activities (!), passionfruit vines, a lime plantation and lots of dense jungle. The Resort area has been sensitively-designed to make the most of the location with every residence overlooking a bubbling river and surrounded by jungle for privacy. Jan and I walked along the boardwalks connecting the residences and then went further along a Bicycle Trail. We found the lime plantation and decided they were needed for G&Ts so filled our pockets and then continued, admiring the dense jungle.

On our way back we watched the clouds lift from the mountains and the skies turn blue.

After testing the skills of the omelette-maker for breakfast we piled into the van and headed up into the mountains more than 1000 metres above sea level. After a while we stopped at a small town and transferred into 2 4WDs better equipped to get us high into the mountains. We had a new guide to take us through the villages as we had to leave Khais behind. 

The new guide clearly had mistaken us for mountain goats and expected us to climb up and down some rocky paths.

He came from one of the mountain villages and was knowledgeable about the way of life in such steep and difficult mountains.

We visited three tribal villages for three of the most well-known tribes: the Khmu, H'mong and Akha. They all have their own cultures and dress but they have had more contact with each other in recent years so there are also a lot of similarities.

The main source of income for all of them was growing mountain rice on the steep upper slopes of the mountains and it is definitely subsistence living. We were astonished by the angle of the slopes and the capacity of the rice to grow there. Clearing the jungle to be able to plant any crop must have been an awful task. There's no mud and water buffaloes involved but the rice seems to get enough water from the mists and clouds. The effect is a patchwork of colour with the various stages of growing rice.

There was a another low green crop that Chinese labourers were working on as we passed. Apparently in between the two crops of rice each year the Chinese rent some of the flatter more accessible land from the Lao tribes and plant yellow beans to be transported to China, only a few kilometres away. I'm not sure of the impact for the rice crops as usually they need time to breakdown organic material between crops.

There were a few cows trying to keep their balance on the road's edge but the only other animals were in the villages. Plenty of dogs, chickens, some ducks and pigs all ran wild with the children.

Each tribe follows their their own version of animism which is an ancient and long-standing religion based on spirits and a strong belief in nature and its power. Before entering the Khmu village we stopped at a ‘spirit gate’ which was a simple rail with feathers and some decorated wood hanging from it. 

The following day we saw a different spirit gate at the Khmu village at NamKat Yorlapa.

The villages were nestled into the mountains and the housing varied greatly. The original houses were very basic and made from wood and bamboo whilst those people whose income had improved built more substantial houses with grey bricks.

As they have lived very isolated lives the adults were a bit hesitant and shy when we arrived but the kids were happy for the distraction. 

It was a Sunday so most of the parents and older children were working in the fields leaving grandparents and small children to entertain themselves. It really is subsistence living with hard physical labour being essential for survival. Their resources were poor but their creativity admirable. In one village the kids were using an old thong to hit a can along the road as there was no play equipment, sports areas etc for them to play in.

It would have been good to be able to spend some time speaking to members of each tribe but work has a high priority. Very little English is spoken so we were dependent on the Guide to explain everything.

We did see a man making winnowing baskets from bamboo strips and he allowed us to see inside his house. It was basic but had all that he needed.

It always feels a bit weird to just wander through the villages but they are compensated by the Tour company and visits by tourists aren't frequent as they are rotated through the 13 villages in the area. However I'm not sure we learnt much except to be able to see how challenging and hard their lives are. We came away feeling that their lives could be so much better. The kids seemed bored and aimless with nothing to do. 

We picnicked for lunch in a Primary School at the top of one of the mountains with a truly amazing view. Three small girls thought we were very entertaining but didn't want to get too close, so they hovered at a distance and ran and hid if we looked at them. We had food left over from lunch so the guide gave each of them a bag to take home. We were happy that the food wouldn't be wasted.

The Akha people had houses with distinctive colours and designs. 

Everywhere there is a combination of  old and new: Grey bricks and trucks for those whose lives are improving, but ancient traditions and dress for those following a traditional hard life.

After several hours we retraced our steps back to the Nam Kat Yorlapa Resort and after a relaxing swim to cool us down and wash off the dust we regrouped in our cottage for G&Ts: we couldn't let our stolen limes go to waste!

At one point I went to the loo and when I opened the door there was a HUGE spider on the bathroom floor: about 10 times the size of a daddy-long-legs  (and I'm not exaggerating although others might disagree!) I don't mind small spiders but when this one headed in my direction I shrieked, much to everyone's entertainment! Kerryn intervened clutching a tissue and a piece of paper,  and I jumped over the spider to escape. It disappeared into the toilet never to be seen again. I wasn't sure whether it would reappear so was a bit hesitant, and very quick, when I needed the loo!

On the other hand we discovered an absolutely stunning spider just outside our door which produced some babies in the time we resided there. And the next morning Jan and I found some small spiders and their webs scattered through the lime trees and the ground around them. They were easy to see as there was low cloud and they were covered in condensation. This place would be fascinating for anyone interested in spiders and insects and birds and fungi.

After an enjoyable dinner overlooking the river we all adjourned to bed early after a big day. 

your tired correspondent

Dianne